The bustling intersection of Via dei Tribunali (the ancient Decumano Maggiore) and Via San Gregorio Armeno is Piazza San Gaetano, the epicentre of Naples past and present. The meeting and marketplace of the ancient Greco-Roman city of Neapolis – the Greek Agora first and later the Roman Forum, a quick look around the piazza today and one might surmise things haven’t changed that much in the last few millennia.

Shops, caffe’s, and eateries line this “T” shaped piazza, while ruins of their ancient predecessors lurk beneath. There are two underground tours at Piazza San Gaetano: Napoli Sotteranea and Naples Ancient Marketplace at San Lorenzo Maggiore. A third underground site is just a few hundred meters up Via dei Tribunali at Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco.

Some of the best pizza in Naples can be had here at I Decumani or try the Panini Napoletani at Pasticceria Rosticceria San Gaetano di Ippolito Nunzio whose selection of savoury street foods is only outdone by their sweet pastries, especially their Babà. Meanwhile, Limonè serves up Limoncello and a variety of other liquors while  duelling cafes sit catty-cornered on either side of Via dei Tribunali. And, on any given day you might hear the sweet sounds of Neapolitan music coming from the direction of San Lorenzo Maggiore. That is most likely Alfredo Imparato, one of small number of posteggiatori remaining in Naples, keeping the centuries old tradition of public singing alive.