Sometimes an order can cost as much as a meal, but until I spent two days making them with Giuseppe, I didn’t appreciate the time, patience and of course love that is put into each bite.

Arriving at the table in a variety of shapes and sizes, what is hidden inside of each bite-sized morsel, and I use that term loosely, is known only to those in the know. Each restaurant has their own specialties, but generally you will find golden brown fried rice balls – the Arancini. The torpedo shaped Crocchè di Patate and triangular “carriages,” the Mozzarella in Carrozza. Fried spears or rounds of zucchini and eggplant and of course, a few Pizzette Fritte.

Topping it all off, misshapen blobs of Pasta Cresciuta, plain, di Alghe, di Fiori di Zucca, or some other delight. Simple to make, though harder to work with, Pasta Cresciuta is a thick batter or semi-liquid dough known as Pastètta. The Neapolitan for pastella or pastella per frittura, which simply means batter for frying. Made with just four ingredients: flour, water, salt, and yeast, once immersed in hot oil, it grows and expands, giving way to its name Pasta Cresciuta, from the Italian crescere, to grow.

Pastètta finds use in both savory and sweet applications and a variety of ingredients such as anchovies or seaweed may be added to the batter as the cook sees fit. It can also be used to batter vegetables, meats or fish and of course, it can be served plain, right out of the fryer topped with just a bit of salt or sugar. You might know the sugar topped version as Zeppole, and in fact, Zeppole can be used to describe any type of Pasta Cresciuta, but the Neapolitan version of sweet Zeppole or more precisely, Zeppole di San Giuseppe is a horse of another color.

Ingredients

1 Kilo Flour
1 Cake (.6 oz) fresh yeast or one package or 2 1/4 tsp active dry yeast
Salt and Pepper
Warm Water
About 25 Zucchini Flowers
Frying Oil

Method

Pour the flour into a large bowl and add salt and pepper and the yeast
If you are using active dry yeast you will need to dissolve it in about  1/2 cup warm water first
Add warm water, a little bit at a time while mixing the dough with your hands until the dough is semi-liquid, soft and malleable
Heat about 3 inches of frying oil in a large pan
Using a spoon or your fingers, coat the zucchini flowers one at a time with the batter and immediately put into the hot oil
Wetting your fingers or the spoon with cold water now and then will make it easier to work with the dough
Cook until golden brown on both sides, turning once and spooning hot oil over the top, once or twice on each side
Remove to paper towels to drain
Drop spoonfuls of the remaining batter into the hot oil and cook until golden brown
Top with salt or sugar and serve immediately

Buon Appetito!

A native Neapolitan, Giuseppe Topo is a hairstylist and one of the owners of Noi, Naples only English-speaking salon. A passionate cook, when he’s not styling hair Giuseppe can be found in the kitchen cooking up one of his favorite Neapolitan dishes.

Find all of his great recipes at Cooking with Giuseppe!

After the success of Naples Special ZTL instituted for the occasion of America’s Cup, in terms of livability of the area, reduction of vehicle pollution and congestion, and on the proposal of the Mayor, the Administration and the multitude of citizens who sent in hundreds of suggestions for initiatives around the use of Lungomare Liberato, Comune di Napoli has decided to leave Via Caracciolo and Via Partenope a Pedestrian Zone.

And the Special ZTL? Now being called the ZTL del Mare, regardless of protests by business owners or the signs “Stop alla ZTL” posted in nearly every shop in Chiaia, the ZTL will remain in force for the next six months, but with some modifications and simplifications.

Starting Monday May 14th through November 30th, 2012, the ZTL del Mare will be in force Monday through Friday from 0830 to 1400. The first six months will be a temporary period during which time the provisions for the definitive project can be put in place.

Download the map here

Perimeter of the ZTL del Mare

Via del Parco Margherita, Piazza Amedeo, Via Martucci, Via Riviera di Chiaia (exit from the ZTL in direction of Piedigrotta), Via Giordano Bruno, Piazza Sannazaro, Via Sannazaro, Via Caracciolo, Via Partenope, Via Nazario Sauro, Via Acton, Piazza Municipio, Via Toledo, Via San Liborio, Via Pasquale Scura, Vico Trinità delle Monache, Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

Parking Area of Viale Dohrn

A service of the new ZTL del Mare, starting Saturday May 12th, the completely repaved Parcheggio di Viale Dohrn will open with 400 parking places. Entrance to the parking area is at Piazza Sannazzaro where Napolipark personnel will manage access. The new tariffs, which will also be valid for parking in the adjacent zone on Riviera di Chiaia are:

Monday through Friday from 0800 to 1400 – €3,00 flat rate
Monday through Friday from 1400 to 2000 – €3,00 flat rate
Monday through Friday from 0800 to 2000 – €4,00 flat rate
Evenings and Sat, Sun and Holidays – €1,50 for the first hour and €2,00 per hour after that

Other provisions of the ZTL del Mare

To make the Pedestrian Area more accessible, starting Saturday May 12th, new parking areas will be implemented in Piazza Vittoria on the side of Via Partenope.

To facilitate the direct passage of buses to the hotels on Lungomare and vehicles involved in loading/unloading goods, a no parking zone (with forced removal) will be instituted on the left side of Via Alessandro Dumas Padre. The right side of Via Alessandro Dumas Padre will become a taxi rank.

To improve traffic flow, the left side (direction of travel) of Via Piedigrotta and Largo Toretta will also become no-parking zones with forced removal starting May 14th, 2012.

Public Transportation 

Chiaia Funicolare Hours of Operation
Mon, Thu, and Sun – 0700 to 2400
Tues and Wed – 0700 to 2200
Fri and Sat – 0700 to 0200

ANM Bus lines serving the area
140, C24, E6 and 154

Having to do the interview entirely in Italian, I was sure my intentions would get lost in translation. But Pietro captured everything I wanted to say in a way I would have never been able to say it, especially in Italian.

Thanks to Pietro and the Il Mattino for such a great honor!

Read the article here

But that was then and this is now and we know so much more.

In general, there are two types of volcanic eruptions: effusive and explosive.

Effusive eruptions are what most people think of when they think of a volcano: steaming, hot lava bubbling out and over the rim and oozing down the side. Historically Mt. Etna has produced effusive activity; however several Plinian eruptions have been identified eons ago. Mt. Etna has the longest period of documented eruptions in the world, 3,500 years.

While effusive eruptions are fairly rare here, there are a few areas in the Campi Flegrei in which the lava can be seen: beneath the Accademia Aeronautica in Pozzuoli, in the crater of the Astroni volcano, at Agnano at the base of Montespina, and at Cuma.

Explosive eruptions have magma which is not very fluid, and are characterized by the emission of ash, pumice, volcanic debris (like stones, dirt, dust, etc.) and a large quantity of gas. The deposits from these eruptions are called “pyroclastic” (fiery rock fragments). Volcanoes of this type are Vesuvius (sometimes), Stromboli and the volcanoes of the Andes to name a few.  Vesuvius is very tricky and changes its eruptive style so more about that later.

Explosive eruptions can be further divided into two categories:

• Eruptions caused by the expansion of gases contained in the magma; these are referred to as magmatic eruptions.
• Eruptions produced by the vaporization of surface water (i.e. oceans, lakes, etc.) coming into contact with magma, these are called hydromagmatic.

When we think of volcanoes we have to think in terms of their releasing a buildup of gas found in the magma. The diagram below shows a cross section of a volcano. Think of it like a belly button with the umbilical cord reaching far into the center of the earth where molten magma resides. Depending on the physical and temperature forces, the gases contained in the magma can either trickle out slowly or burst forth with a devastating blast.

While we will cover Vesuvius and Pompei in much more detail in a later post, suffice it to note that the devastation caused at Pompei and Herculeneum was caused mainly by gases and volcanic debris.

I just had to include this because it IS truly incredible footage of the Marum Volcano on Ambrym Island in the South Pacific nation of Vanuatu.

To wrap up this installment, here is something for all of you who are fans of David Letterman’s Top Ten Lists. Name the world’s top ten active volcanoes.

Next Up: The Burning Fields

Check out the rest of Ann’s EarthScape Naples Series
Follow Ann’s EarthScape Naples Series

Ann Pizzorusso is a geologist and Italian Renaissance scholar. After many years of doing virtually everything in the world of geology (drilling for oil, hunting for gems, cleaning up pollution in soil and groundwater) she turned her geologic skills toward Leonardo da Vinci. See her work on Leonardo’s Geology. You can find Ann on Facebook at Leonardo da Vinci Virgin of the Rocks and on Twitter @VirginoftheRock.

The first artist to complete ART 1307′s new month long Artist in Residence program, Todd’s work and the work of future artists who embark on this program will be donated to the city in which they were created. Each artist leaving behind his or her impressions of the city through their work, each taking away a piece of the city in their hearts and in their minds.

Eventually, these works will be auctioned off to generate the funds needed to usher a new group of artists through the program. Artists not just from the US, but from all over the world. Another initiative by Naples ART 1307, it seeks to create an international exchange program among artists and between artists and patrons.

Arriving here last month, Todd went quickly to work on his pieces. Painting out of a small studio in Posillipo overlooking the bay, his view couldn’t have been anymore inspiring. But having spent time in Naples on several occasions since the mid 1990s, Todd arrived here already inspired.

In fact, some of the fundamental elements that characterize Naples, its light, color and chaos are the core elements that define Todd’s work.

The light in Naples is vibrant and strong. It is clear and pure and works perfectly with an artists eye.

The colors that are a part of Naples are bright and vibrant. They are the colors of life living at the edge and fully living an experience.

Chaos. What can I say. Naples is a city of chaos and yet it manages to contain the chaos like I contain the chaos in my work.

Todd achieves that containment or control of chaos through the use of horizontal lines which he explains:

…act similarly to staffs on a page of music holding each note in place and giving it structure. In this respect, my work can be read like sheet music giving you a small glimpse of whom I am.

In fact, there is a musicality to most of Todd’s works, many of which he titles like one would title a song.

Always seeking to evolve, Todd’s recent experimentation with vertical lines was used in two of the paintings he did while in Naples.

Todd also debuted one of his newest endeavors, the “sculpture box,” when he presented his works at an all day conference and lecture at PAN – Palazzo delle Arti on April 17th. Organized by ART 1307, it was sponsored by Comune di Napoli and the U.S. Consulate General in Naples.

Throughout its several thousand year history, Naples has both produced and been the muse for artists of all types – painters, sculptors, photographers, writers, musicians, actors, and more. Totò was born here in Naples Rione Sanità, Virgil wrote the Georgics and Aeneid here, drawing inspiration from the same view Todd had from his studio in Posillipo, and Caravaggio, one of Todd’s biggest inspirations, painted his Seven Work’s of Mercy here.

With such a long and vast history of art, it seems only fitting that a new generation of artists should find their inspiration here in Naples.

Todd summed it up best saying, (history) “is the master teacher and Naples is a master class.”

Cacciatore – hunter, cacciatrice – huntress, cacciatora – in the style of.

At least I assume.

This got me to wondering though. I’ve always thought of Neapolitans as gatherers, but were they ever big hunters?

They have a long history with the sea which still provides a diet rich in clams, mussels, octopus, squid and a variety of white fish. The olives, grapes and lemons that are grown all over the region produce some of the world’s best wines, olive oils and of course the world famous limoncello. And fresh fruits and vegetables like tomatoes, figs and artichokes thrive in the fertile Vesuvian soil.

But Neapolitans as hunters was something I’d never given any thought to before, though I’m sure at one point in time it was part of the culture. Up above Piazza Carlo III there is a villa, Villa di Donato that was an 18th century casino di caccia, a hunting lodge that served the residents of Capodimonte Palace.

What they hunted for I don’t know, but I’m guessing rabbit might have been on the list. In fact, here in Naples you are just as likely to see Cacciatora made with coniglio, rabbit as you are with chicken. A meat I am still trying to warm up to, it is the star of a dish from Ischia known as Coniglio all’Ischitana that is made from local rabbit I’m told is like none other.

But I digress.

As I’m sure you know, Naples doesn’t own the market on Cacciatora, be it made with rabbit or chicken. You will find it in all manners and sorts of variations throughout Italy.

So what sets this the Neapolitan version apart?

The flavor it produces in it’s simplicity. Something magical happens when the chicken, tomatoes, white wine, and peperoncino are combined and braised slowly on the stove. The result? A spicy, sweet, savory sauce, and chicken, or rabbit as the case may be, so tender it falls off the bones.

Ingredients

1 Kilogram Chicken Legs
500 Grams Cherry Tomatoes
1 Small Onion
1 or 2 Peperoncino
White Wine
Olive Oil
Salt and Pepper

Method

Chop the onion and halve the tomatoes
Lightly salt and pepper the chicken on all sides
Heat a generous amount of oil in a large, deep frying pan
Add onions and lightly sauté
Break up the Peperoncino with your fingers into the onions and stir through
Add the chicken and lightly brown it on all sides
Add about 1/2 cup of white wine
Turn the heat up until the wine nearly completely reduces, turning the chicken once or twice
Add the tomatoes and lightly salt
Turn the heat to medium-low, cover and cook about 35 minutes until the chicken is done
Stir occasionally while the chicken is cooking and add water as needed to prevent the sauce from reducing too much

Buon Appetito!

A native Neapolitan, Giuseppe Topo is a hairstylist and one of the owners of Noi, Naples only English-speaking salon. A passionate cook, when he’s not styling hair Giuseppe can be found in the kitchen cooking up one of his favorite Neapolitan dishes.

Find all of his great recipes at Cooking with Giuseppe!

From the meticulously restored San Domenico Maggiore Church to the Basilica of San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli that recently reopened its doors after 42 years. In Naples Castel Capuano and Galleria Principe. And in the church and cloister of Sant’Eligio and the underground routes of the Rione Sanità quarter.

San Domenico Maggiore Church

After the Inauguration of the newly restored San Domenico Maggiore Church on May 15th, Icra Project will present performances of Perla Barroca at San Domenico Maggiore Church every weekend through June 2nd.

Fri through Sun May 18th – 20th and 25th – 27th and Fri and Sat June 1st and 2nd. All performances at 1930

San Giovanni Maggiore a Pignatelli Church

The Duo Maria Pia De Vito and Huw Warren are the warm up act on May 5th for a series of solo concerts that will be performed every Saturday and Sunday May 12th through June 3rd at the San Giovanni Maggiore a Pignatelli Church. Loredana Simioli and Gennaro Silvestro will open each concert with readings of poems and texts by major authors who have described and made the city of Naples great. Saturday concerts start at 2100 and Sunday concerts start at 1800.

• May 5th Maria Pia De Vito and Huw Warren in Concert
• May 12th Riccardo Veno in Concert - Saxophone, flute, ethnic woodwinds, voice
• May 13th Valentina Grimaldi in Concert - Flute
• May 19th Francesco Villani in Concert - Piano
• May 20th Mario Formisano in Concert - Bass
• May 26th Carlo Lomanto in Concert - Vocalist
• May 27th Antonio Onorato in Concert - Guitar
• June 2nd Ciccio Merolla in Concert - Percussion
• June 3rd Luca Pugliese in Concert - Voice and Guitar

Galleria di Principe

Galleria di Principe will play host to Neapolitan Music, Contemporary Dance and the Argentine Tango every weekend from May 5th through May 27th.

Aurora Giglio will perform traditional Neapolitan songs in her show  Canzoni in oMaggio: The Art of the Posteggia on Saturday May 5th, 12th, 19th and 26th at 1200.

Akerusia Association will present a series of Contemporary Dance Performances at Galleria di Principe

• Sunday May 13th at 1230 Akerusi presents Crossing by Elena and Sabrina D’Aguanno and Dies Festi – compagnia Excursus by Ricky Bonavita
• Sunday May 20th at 1230 Akerusi presents ”PASSIONE” by Elena e Sabrina D’Aguanno
• Saturday May 26th at 2000 Akerusi presents Terra, Tra me, Nerotango by Elena e Sabrina D’Aguanno
• Sunday May 27th at 1230 Akerusi presents Dies Festi – compagnia Excursus by Ricky Bonavita, Tre – Art Garage by Emma Cianchi and La Bambola Coppelia by Uroburo Teatro Danza

Tamotango and Mujeres of the Tango Associations will present an evening of dance with one of the most famous couples in the world of Argentine Tango, Argentine Tango at Galleria Principe with Lorena Ermocida and Fabian Peralta, Sunday May 6th 1900 – 2400

Argentine Tango lessons for beginners and practice open to all with the dancers of the schools La Milonga Porteña e Mujeres del Tango, Sunday May 13th and 20th 1900 – 2200

An evening of dance with exhibitions by the maestros from La Milonga Porteña e Mujeres del Tango Saturday May 27th 1900 – 2400 Argentine Tango

Sant’Eligio Church

Concerts by the students of the Conservatory of San Pietro a Majella at Sant’Eligio every Sunday May 13th, 20th, 27th and June 3rd at 1800.

Castel Capuano

Readings and performances in the spaces of Castel Capuano.

• May 5th – 6th Courtyard of Castel Capuano
• May 12th – 13th Castel Capuano – New Openings to the City
• May 19th – 20th Castel Capuano – Narrations in the Hall of Busts
• May 26th – 27th Federì at Castel Capuano
• June 2nd – 3rd I Cantori di Posillipo at Castel Capuano

Rione Sanità

Theatrical readings and acoustic concerts in the most characteristic places of Naples Rione Sanità.

• May 6th R&Fusion Acoustic Concert in the Catacombs of San Gennaro
• May 12th Dario Mennella Acoustic Concert in the Catacombs of San Gaudioso
• May 13th Salvatore Cantalupo reads Andrei Tarkovskij
• May 19th Antonello Cossia Reads Speeches of Søren Kierkegaard
• May 20th I Posteggiatori Tristi Concert and Show
• May 26th Off-Beat Trio Jazz Concert
• May 27th Anna Mancini Acoustic Concert
• June 2nd Lectura Dantis by Antonio Lucidi

More about Maggio dei Monumenti 2012

Leading you through some of the city’s most important sites and discovering some of the city’s history and traditions along the way, each tour is organized by a local cultural association.

Two tours of each itinerary are offered every Saturday and Sunday from May 5th through June 3rd.

Castel dell’Ovo to Piazza San Domenico Guided Walking Tour

Castel Sant’Elmo to Parco Villa Floridiana Guided Walking Tour

Decumano Inferiore Guided Walking Tour

Decumano Maggiore Guided Walking Tour

Decumano Superiore Guided Walking Tour

I Vergini e la Sanità Guided Walking Tour

La Via del Duomo Guided Walking Tour

La via delle Muse Guided Walking Tour

Le Scale di Napoli – Il Moiariello Guided Walking Tour

Le Scale di Napoli – La Pedamentina Guided Walking Tour

Porta Nolana to Porta di Massa Guided Walking Tour

Porta Capuana Guided Walking Tour

More about Maggio dei Monumenti 2012

Now in its 18th year, Maggio dei Monumenti 2012 starts today, May 2nd. Running through June 3rd, it is a month long celebration of Naples cultural heritage: its art, architecture and archaeology, and its cultural traditions: literature, theater, music, and dance.

A packed calendar of events, the slogan this year is, oMaggio ai monumenti – per amare Napoli, Tribute to the Monuments – For the love of Naples. As in years past, there will be a wide variety of guided tours, concerts, theater and dance programs, lectures and readings, and an opportunity to discover some of Naples unique treasures that are rarely open to the public.

Highlights of this year’s program include:

From the top of Vomero hill to the streets of Centro Storico, discover the city’s well known history and little known facts with experts from local cultural organizations who will take you on 12 Special Guided Walks in the city.

Acoustic concerts in catacombs, tango in Galleria di Principe and solo concerts in the recently reopened San Giovanni Maggiore a Pignatelli are just some of what’s been planned for The Weekends in the Places of May Series.

As in years past, Naples will open the doors to a number of sites and structures that are normally closed throughout the year. Visit the Ancient Theater of Neapolis, Naples Botanical Gardens and many more places during this years edition of Maggio dei Monumenti Special Openings.

In advance of its June opening, get a preview of Naples newest Metro Station, Stazione Toledo and its great works of art May 26th and 27th.

For opening weekend of Maggio dei Monumenti, the staging of the famous work of poet Giacomo Leopardi at Palazzo Serra di Cassano, Operette Morali di Giacomo Leopardi runs May 2nd through May 5th.

At Naples PAN Palazzo delle Arti through June 27th, the exhibit Behind the Eyes – Works of the Photographer Cesare Accetta, a look athe last 20 years of Neapolitan theater through the photography of Cesare Accetta.

The second edition of “Book festival at Naples Underground and the Cloister of San Paolo Maggiore,” Another Galaxy runs from May 18th – 20th.

For 4 days at over 80 addresses scattered throughout the city, Wine & The City is the first widespread event dedicated to fine Italian wines.

And that’s just for starters!

Our list of Maggio dei Monumenti Events is already jam packed and we will be adding to it over the coming days. In the meantime, you can check Comune di Napoli’s complete Maggio dei Monumenti Program (in Italian only).

More about Maggio dei Monumenti 2012

Kites of all colors, shapes and sizes filled the sky above Lungomare, Naples seafront promenade along Via Caracciolo and Via Partenope, “symbols of freedom of imagination and joy.”

Part the “Lungomare Liberato” initiative that arose from the ZTL and pedestrian area put in place for America’s Cup Naples 2012, the Mayor is continuing his quest to free Naples Lungomare from cars and reclaim one of the most beautiful seafronts in the world.

Piazza Dante, Centro Storico and now Via Caracciolo. A lungomare pedestrianized, a lungomare liberated. For Neapolitans and tourists, peaceful promenades to walk, to bike, to rickshaw in tandem, but never again the car. Bringing out the best of our riches, of our culture, of our landscape. A common good of which every inhabitant of this city can and should be proud. Cultural and touristic initiatives but also entrepreneurial in a scenario unique in the world.

Scheduled to revert back to normal traffic patterns on April 25th, Comune di Napoli announced on April 24th that the ZTL would continue through May 31st and confirmed the permanent pedestrianization of Via Partenope and Via Caracciolo.

After the extraordinary success of the ZTL, the encouragement of many citizens that have experienced “lungomare liberato,” the seafront liberated from cars and taking into account the concerns and criticisms of restaurant and business owners in Chiaia, Partenope and Mergellina, we have decided to proceed with the extension while safeguarding the objectives, redrawing the boundaries of the ZTL and providing for the permanent pedestrianization of Lungomare. In this sense, we are establishing a positive and permanent dialog with the groups and associations involved to monitor the implementation of the measure and collect applications and proposals for improvement. Councilor for Infrastructure and Mobility Anna Donati

The extension until the end of May will serve as a time to discuss and approve the final order for the ZTL as required by law and to create a resolution that will best represent the needs of all involved.

The provisions include:

• The pedestrianization of Via Caracciolo and Via Partenope
• Redrawing some of the boundaries of the current ZTL
• A ZTL that will be in force daily from 0700 – 1800
• Installation of a parking area on Viale Dohrn that will be operated by Napolipark
• Installation of computerized gates for vehicle access control
• Increased ANM Bus service on the lines that serve the area of ​​ZTL
• Extending the operating hours of the Chiaia Funicolare during Maggio dei Monumenti 2012, April 26th to June 3rd
• Continued enhancement of taxi service at the taxi ranks at Piazzale Tecchio, Piazza Vittoria, Via Caracciolo (hydrofoils), the National Archaeology Museum, and Parcheggio Brin

Meanwhile, the Mayor is asking for suggestions from citizens and business owners to help guide future initiatives.

With this initiative we are asking citizens and entrepreneurs to submit ideas, suggestions, and proposals which will help us to design a livable waterfront that meets both human needs and business initiatives and that encourages the revitalization of the entire commercial area. Mobility, public transportation, cultural and tourist initiatives, urban initiatives, enhancement of the green space and maritime resources, sponsorship of events, and environmental friendly initiatives such as electric bikes and segways.

Additionally, the Mayor has created a new website, LungomareLiberato which is promoting this initiative by displaying residents photos of the liberated waterfront sent in via Twitter.

• Use hash tag #LungoMareLiberato for images around the theme of a liberated Via Caracciolo
• Use hash tag #QuiDoveIlMareLuccica for images around the theme of sailing and the sea

More about Lungomare Liberato