Changin’ the View
The decision is made. The papers are signed. And there’s no backing out now!
OMG!!! What did we do?
We live in one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in Napoli. The sweeping views of the Bay and Vesuvius lure tourists from all over the world to Posillipo. They come to take in the panorama of the Bay that stretches from the city along the entire length of the Sorrentine peninsula and out to Capri. The view I get to see everyday.
OMG!!! What did we do?
And our apartment. A HUGE (by Napoli standards) first floor walk-up with fifteen foot ceilings and four balconies facing the sea.
OMG!!! What did we do?
And our neighborhood. The shop owners and neighbors that became our friends and then our family. The comfort of knowing everyone in the neighborhood and them you. In the immortal words of the Cheers theme song, “sometimes you just wanna “live” where everybody knows your name.”
OMG!!! What did we do?
But the itch hit and it hit hard. The last time it hit, I held it at bay by painting the apartment. The time before that, we crossed an ocean. Freed ourselves of the 20,000 lb ball and chain we called our suburban house and its belongings and condensed our life into a 1,200 square foot city apartment.
Are we crazy? Are we committment-phobes? Or are we just are vagabonds? There’s no real rhyme or reason to it, but every three or four years we get the itch to cut and run. It’s in our blood and there is nothing we can do about it. But this time around, while we want to change the view, we don’t want to change the channel.
So our conversations over the last several months have centered around, not where in the world do we want to go next, but where in Napoli do we want to go next. We’ve lived in this neighborhood for five years now and it’s time to try something new. But up until a few weeks ago, this whole scheme had been in the abstract. Just an idea we were toying with. Then out of nowhere we found out about an apartment in the chic Chiaia district (thanks to our friends at Noi!!!), and before we knew it we heard ourselves saying “we’ll take it.”
OMG!!! What did we do?
Half the size of our apartment, this 600 square foot charmer has three less rooms. Another exercise in downsizing to be sure, but on the upside, it’s half the apartment to clean. And although it only has one balcony, and a city view vice the sweeping views of the bay, the panorama is every bit as beautiful.
But the location is what sealed the deal. Nestled on one of the characteristic cobble stoned alleys that runs between Piazza dei Martiri and Piazza San Pasquale, the area is chock full of shops, caffes, restaurants, wine bars, and there is a large open air vegetable market everyday just steps from the door. The major bookstore, la Feltrinelli, the PAN Contemporary Arts Center, and the upscale shopping district along Via Chiaia are all short walks from here as is the metro, the major transportation hub at Piazza Vittoria and Villa Comunale and Lungomare.
A bit less residential, a lot more bustle.
I will miss my friends and neighbors (although they’ll be less than 4 km away), my everday routine in Posillipo, and my big apartment with the panoramic view, but…
OMG!!! I can’t wait to move!
P.S. Anyone want to buy a bedroom set?
Out with the old and into the new, so to speak..how exciting it is to shake things up every once in awhile, including ourselves, and head out to new beginnings – a new path in life full of wonderful surprises and delights. Wish you all the best in your move and don’t forget those pictures!! I want to see your new abode, the surrounding views, the quaint cobble-stoned streets and all the charm and ambiance of Naples!!
Thanks Jeff!!! Familiarity is comforting but change is exhilarating. Sometimes scary, sometimes frustrating, but always entertaining! I will definitely be putting pictures out of the new digs and the new neighborhood – so stay tuned. And depending on what @paul_anater comes up with on the floor plans, we just might have a small guest sleeping area in this whopping 600 sq ft. LOL
Yes, pictures!!! map location! Wish I could say I would be visiting but too old and disabled to
take on European antiquities, cobblestones, etc. ADA is my buddy now, and this internet,
google, and Napoli Unplugged!!!
Hi Dixie – will definitely get pictures and map location out soon. Wish you could make the journey, but glad you get to enjoy a bit of this great city through the power of the internet. And I have to say, the cobblestones are killers LOL.
OMG what did you do?! Seriously these were my first thoughts: Where are you going to watch the New Year’s Eve craziness in Posillipo that you told me about? Ah, but Chiaia is very chic, as you said, and you’ll be more centrally located. How great! Will look forward to the photos of the “new digs.” I hope the move goes very smoothly.
OMG I know Kathy!!! New Years Eve was one of the biggest things holding us back
I guess we will have to join in the craziness in Piazza del Plebiscito or make fast friends with the girl who rented the apartment next door. Photos soon I promise!!! And I hope the move goes smoothly too, but I suspect it will just become more fodder for the blog LOL. We start meeting with contractors soon to install the kitchen, so that ought to provide some good material!
Wow, Big News! Obviously just catching up and saw this … I know you’ll miss your neighbors and neighborhood, but good for you for grabbing the opportunity. … But does this mean there’s no room for overnight guests?
Yes – we are very excited and sad at the same time! Believe it or not, we are working on plan that we hope will include a small space for a guest – will have to see if we can do it.
OMG!!! I can’t believe you could give up the “umbrella pine” view of the bay. We always wanted to move there when we lived there a not-so-long-ago 20 years. We did live at #70 Via San Gennario on the water with great views of capri, Ischia and Nissida on the way to Pozzuoli.
Hi Jim – I know OMG!!! We love the views, love the neighborhood, but just want to be more in the center of things and try something new. But I’m still wondering if I’m crazy LOL. Have you been back to Napoli in the not-so-long 20 years?
Wow! I wish I could get your old apartment! But the neighborhood you are moving to is so fun!
Yes Penny the new neighborhood is awesome – we can’t wait
Hi Bonnie,
I stumbled upon your blog and love it!!! Thanks for SO MUCH great information and sharing your stories and experiences. I get a kick out of it as I am experiencing many of the same situations.
I am living in Posillipo, near Donn’Anna with my boyfriend for about a year and was wondering where the open air market is near piazza martiri? I always go to the big one in Fuorigrotta, but I hate changing buses. I wish I had 4 balconies with ocean views!!
I am leaving soon for the holidays (back to California), but I’ll be back in a few months.
I love Chiaia and think living there would be incredibly fun and convenient for so many reasons. I hope you are getting settled in by now.
Thanks again for sharing.
Hi Kelli – so glad you found the blog and thank you for the kind comments!!! In case you didn’t notice there is a link on the blog to the website (www.napoliunplugged.com) which has tons of info about the city, events, museums, archaeological sites, etc.
So funny how it takes the internet to meet someone less than a kilometer away LOL. It’s gorgeous by Donn’Anna, I imagine you are enjoying it. I would love to hear more about what brought you here.
The markets by Piazza dei Martiri are easier to show you than explain, so if you are still around next week, I’d be happy to show you where they are. Otherwise, here’s how you can get there:
Both markets can be reached from Piazza Vittoria or Via San Pasquale. To avoid changing buses, I will try to direct you from Piazza Vittoria. This is probably not the easiest way but it’s a pretty walk. From Vittoria walk up towards Piazza dei Marteri. As you pass Emporio Armani(on your left) you will see a newspaper stand and a Farmacia – take a left there on Via Alabardieri. This will turn into Vico Belledonne a Chiaia (my new neighborhood) at Punch and Judy’s and then turn into Via Vittorio Imbriani – this is where the clothes market is.
When you come to the end of the market, take a right and walk up one block and you will find the fruits and vegetables market on your left. At the end of this market street you will be on Via San Pasquale. From there you can take a left and go back down to Riviera di Chiaia.
You can also reach both markets from the Piazza San Pasquale/the San Pasquale church. Head up on the road to the right of the church – Via Giosue Carducci to Via Vittorio Imbriani on the right to reach the clothes market. Come back to Via Giosue Carducci and continue up to the vegetable market on Via Vittorio Imbriani on your left.
Hope you enjoy the markets and again, let me know if you’d like me to show you where they are. I’ll be in Posillipo till the end of the month
Ciao,
Bonnie