There are places that you go to, and once is enough. And then there is Napoli. John Turturro, Passione
HOT OFF THE PRESS
THE CHRISTMAS ROUNDUP
A tiny alley in Naples Centro Storico, Via San Gregorio Armeno is the heart and soul of the Neapolitan Christmas. By the first week of December, it is jam packed with shoppers seeking to add to their nativity scenes and thousands of curious tourists.
A traditional craft that is said to date back to Saint Francis of Assisi’s commissioning of a Nativity scene in the 13th century, Naples elevated this craft into high art. By the 18th century, thanks in part to the patronage of King Charles the III, the art of the presepio was in its golden age.
The hunt always starts where so many of the presepi do, Naples Christmas Alley, Via San Gregorio Armeno, home to many of the artisans that craft the presepi. From there, I revisit the city’s Permanent Collections, and then… the adventure begins.
By early evening on Christmas Eve, the streets will become eerily deserted as families gather at home to prepare the meal. From every kitchen in the city, the scents of generations old family recipes will waft into the air as it draws nearer to the time-honored Cena della Vigilia di Natale.
Rarely frequented by tourists, Porta Nolana, the best seafood market in Naples, Italy is where locals go to find their live clams, mussels, eels, and more. Everything they need to make the Neapolitan Christmas Eve Dinner.
Passionate about my adopted home, for me Naples is the perfect canvas. From its breathtaking vistas to its rich cultural heritage, I could live here a lifetime and never see it all, photograph it all, or write about it all.
Author of the Espresso Break, the blog and the book, and the Naples (Napoli) Travel Information Guide, Barbara Zaragoza has generously willed her Naples stories to live on in the Napoli Unplugged pages.
A native Neapolitan and passionate cook, Giuseppe Topo's traditional Neapolitan recipes… and not only!
Resident geologist Ann Pizzorusso explores the geological forces at play around this beautiful city, the one with the most famous volcano on earth!
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